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P1. The first pitch is often the most difficult for parties that lack solid crack climbing skills as it is quite sustained, flared, and unlike the rest of the route it offers a lack of face climbing options.
P2. The second pitch is short, and can be combined with P1 for those with a 70m rope - a few well-protected steep moves on good face holds to a ledge with a bolted anchor. Move the belay, following the crack system to the back of the ledge near a couple of bushes growing out of the crack.
P3. Pitch 3 houses the single hardest move of the route, navigating a short roof just before the next bolted anchor. There's good pro to be had in the crack at the lip (in the BD 0.3 to 0.4 range) before pulling it.
P4. Arguably the money pitch. After a short wide section (small gear in the back), enjoy wonderful Red-Rocks-style face climbing with ever-present crack protection. Good luck trying not to smile every time you put your hand on the next unbelievably perfect hold. Longer pitch to another 2-bolt anchor.
P5. Continue following the crack on amazing holds to a short chimney/off-width and a fun, steep, exposed exit. Look for the final bolted anchor on the slab to climber's right (BEFORE the large tree).
(February 2020) Stainless steel glue-in bolts added to each belay/rap station, replacing the tired old tat weaved between 25+ year old drilled pins. The top pitch anchor has been moved to a more obvious stance at the top of the crack system, eliminating the need for an unprotected scramble up and right of the tree. The original rap station nearest the ground (a few meters climber's right of crack system) is also unnecessary, with the new bolted anchor at the top of the second pitch (climber's left, as you arrive at the large ledge that starts P3).
It takes an odd sort of person to really enjoy off-widths. This type of climbing requires full-body movement (and sacrifice) in a wider-than-average crack. The gear required to climb these routes is, by design, weird as well.
So with a desire to venture into this new terrain, he thought of a solution: expandable tube chocks. Driven by springs, the tube would lock into place upon use. Once weighted, the gear would be cammed into the sides of the crack, securing the device in case of a fall or take.
At the time, Lubben was pioneering a lot of roof cracks, and the half-inch size was designed to be placed at the end of a roof crack, preventing the rope from sucking in the cam and eliminating the possibility of getting your cam or rope stuck.
In the early 1930s, Rolls-Royce started planning its future aero-engine development programme and realised there was a need for an engine larger than their 21-litre (1,296 cu in) Kestrel which was being used with great success in a number of 1930s aircraft. Consequently, work was started on a new 1,100 hp (820 kW)-class design known as the PV-12, with PV standing for Private Venture, 12-cylinder, as the company received no government funding for work on the project. The PV-12 was first run on 15 October 1933 and first flew in a Hawker Hart biplane (serial number K3036) on 21 February 1935. The engine was originally designed to use the evaporative cooling system then in vogue. This proved unreliable and when ethylene glycol from the U.S. became available, the engine was adapted to use a conventional liquid-cooling system. The Hart was subsequently delivered to Rolls-Royce where, as a Merlin testbed, it completed over 100 hours of flying with the Merlin C and E engines.
Initially the new engine was plagued with problems such as failure of the accessory gear trains and coolant jackets. Several different construction methods were tried before the basic design of the Merlin was set. Early production Merlins were unreliable: Common problems were cylinder head cracking, coolant leaks, and excessive wear to the camshafts and crankshaft main bearings. 350c69d7ab